Your skincare type might not be what you think

What is skin type and why does it matter?

Your skin type is kinda’ like your skin’s personality.

While everyone’s skin is unique to them, skincare super brains have found enough similarities to categorise skin based on its natural characteristics.

Different skin typing methods tell you different things about your skin, like how much oil it produces, how sensitive it is to UV exposure and how it reacts to skincare products and the environment. My skin, for example, is sensitive and overreacts to the environment 100% of the time (much like its wearer).

Understanding your skin type can help you create a skincare routine that keeps your skin balanced, healthy and comfy. It also saves you from wasting money on products that aren’t for you and stops you from damaging your skin with products that don’t suit your skin type.

Cosmetic skin type

When we (skincare consumers) talk about skin type, we’re usually talking about our cosmetic skin type.

Unlike dermatological skin types, which focus on medical diagnoses (like rosacea or eczema), cosmetic skin types guide consumers toward skincare and makeup formulations that support your specific skin needs. Brands use these classifications to market products, but real skin concerns are often more nuanced and require a personalised approach.

Cosmetic skin types tell you how much sebum your skin produces (or how little). Sebum is your skin’s natural oil. It keeps your skin soft, protected and hydrated, but too much can leave you lookin’ a little greasy and too little can make your skin feel dry and tight.

Cosmetic skin typing relies on subjective perception (your interpretation of your skin) and about 80% of people incorrectly type their skin. That’s heaps, right?

So, what are the types?

• Oily skin shines can overproduce oil and is often breakout-prone.
• Dry skin usually feels tight, and really, really thirsty. It can also look flaky and a bit dull (grey-ish).
• Combination skin is exactly what it sounds like, skin that acts differently in different areas. It can be oily in the T-zone and normal or dry in other areas.
• Normal skin is well balanced, looks pretty even and feels comfortable.

There are also common skin concerns that some skin professionals consider types. Understanding how these concerns effect your skin helps us figure out what your skin needs.

• Sensitive and reactive skin is easily irritated by some ingredients (not just in skincare), environmental factors (like pollen) and meanies (especially meanies). It can look red and inflamed, and the barrier can be damaged.
• Breakout-prone skin can become easily congested or clogged. This can lead to all kinds of spots and pimples. While breakout-prone skin does produces excess oil, it’s often dehydrated. Wands up and wishes to anyone with a painful breakout.
• Mature skin shows signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles (all the proof you’ve been live, love, laughing). Lots of things impact how quickly and extremely our skin ages, like hormones, UV exposure, nutrition, stress, sleep. 

Figure out your skin type at home

It’s easy peasy to figure out your cosmetic skin type.

The wash and wait method

1. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry.
2. Wait for 30 minutes without applying any skincare products.

Your skin will feel dry for about 20 minutes until your sebaceous glands have enough time to create sebum (oil). Make sure you wait the full 30 minutes.

How does your skin look and feel?

• Does it look shiny or feel greasy? You’ve probably got oily skin.
• Does it feel tight and itchy? Your skin is dry.
• Is it shiny in the T-zone but normal or dry elsewhere? You’ve got combination skin.
• Does it feel comfortable and balanced? Your skin is normal, which just means balanced.

If your skin is also red, irritated or painful at the end of the 30 minutes, you’re a sensitive skin cutie like me.

The Blotting Sheet Test

It’s as simple as it sounds.

All you need to do is press oil blotting paper on different areas of your face.

How much oil is on the sheet?

• If the sheet absorbed lots of oil from different areas of your face you’ve got oily skin.
• Is the paper coming away oily only in your T-zone? That’s combination.
• Little to no oil on the paper? You’re balanced or dry.

You know your skin type, so what’s next?

Once you know your skin type, you can start building a routine that works for your skin (instead of guessing).

• Oily skin routine: Focus on lightweight, oil-controlling products like a great gel cleanser, a serum with niacinamide and an oil-free moisturiser.
• Dry skin routine: Use a creamy or oil-based cleanser, a high-quality hydrating serum and a rich moisturiser, barrier cream or nourishing oil. Gentle is always better for dry skin.
• Combination skin routine: Balance is key. Focus on a simple cleanser, an oil-controlling hydrating serum and skin balancing moisturiser.
• Normal, balanced skin routine: Maintain your skins balance with a nice cream cleanser, hydrating serum and a simple moisturiser.
• Sensitive skin routine: You need to be so very, very gentle. Fragrance-free and fragrant essential oil-free products, barrier protection and soothing ingredients are critical. A milky cleanser, simple hydrating serum and barrier cream will help your skin feel more comfortable and resilient.

The most important step in every skincare routine is sun protection. So, find an SPF you like and use it every day.

I’ve used and recommended BEAUTI.FLTR Feather Light SPF50+ for years. It’s lightweight, absorbs quickly, leaves no greasy residue and it doesn’t smell like sunscreen. I’m not overexaggerating - it doesn’t smell at all.

To treat particular skin concerns, you’ll need to add actives to your routine. Book a free 15-minute skin chat to figure out the right actives for your skin.

Skin ch-ch-ch-changes

Skin type isn’t forever.

As you age, your cell turnover rate will slow and you’ll produce less collagen and oil. Your skin will become drier, thinner and less bouncy. Love that for no one.

Hormones also affect your skin - yay! During puberty your skin might produce more oils. Pregnancy hormones can cause melasma. And menopause? You may have drier, more sensitive skin. Can’t we just live!

Humid climates can cause oilier skin, while cold air can make your skin tight and flaky.

Harsh products and lifestyle factors like stress, diet and hydration all affect skin balance.

Medical conditions like PCOM, thyroid issues or medication can also affect your skin and your skin type over time.

As your skin’s needs change, so should your routine. Stay flexible and listen to what your skin’s telling you.

If you still want a little help figuring out your skin type, get it touch. I’d love to help.

Tenille Hellier is the founder of It’s Tenille, an online personalised skincare service based in Adelaide. A certified skincare coach, Tenille built her practice on the idea that skincare should be as simple as possible for consumers. Her personalised skincare programs and product recommendations are based on her rigorous product selection protocol because Tenille believes every product should earn its place in your routine. Book a free 15-minute skin chat with Tenille to figure out the right next step for your skin.

You can find Tenille on Instagram, Facebook and Substack. She’s not cool enough for TikTok.