Simple skincare for adults with hormonal acne
Nobody tells you acne can follow you into your thirties. You assume it ends with your teens but for many of us, it doesn’t.
Instead, it shows up along your jaw, chin and cheeks and the products that used to help don’t anymore.
Hormonal acne in adults is common, especially in women and behaves differently from teen acne, which means your old go-to products probably won’t be enough.
The good news: you don’t need a complicated routine. You need the right one.
What’s actually going on
Hormonal acne is driven by changes in hormones, particularly androgens.
Androgens are hormones that tell your skin to produce oil. Everyone has them, but when levels increase or your skin is more sensitive to them, your oil glands become more active. More oil can mean more clogged pores, which is why androgens are closely linked to breakouts (especially around the jaw and chin).
More oil = more chance of clogged pores. Clogged pores = breakouts. Breakouts = bummer.
This change in hormones (and their breakout buddies) often lines up with your cycle, stress or perimenopause. Sometimes all at once. Rude.
It’s also worth knowing, this type of acne often comes with sensitivity. So, your skin can be breaking out and feeling dry at the same time.
I feel like Betty Bad News… Sorry! I promise, I’m getting to the good stuff.
But first, we need to talk about where you might do more harm than good when treating breakouts…
What not to do
The biggest mistake I see people make is trying to “strip” their skin of oils using strong cleansers, harsh treatments or by skipping moisturiser. It feels logical but it doesn’t work.
Oil (sebum) protects and supports your skin. It helps lock in water, keeping your skin hydrated and forms part of your skin barrier, which defends your body against irritation, bacteria and environmental stress.
When your skin has the right amount of oil, it’s more balanced, less reactive and better able to heal. When you strip your skin, your body actually produces more oil to compensate. More oil leads to more congestion. And you’re stuck in a loop.
The goal is to balance your skin hydration and oils, not remove oil all together.
What actually helps
Morning
Keep it simple.
Start with a gentle cleanse. You want to remove excess sebum, wash away some bacteria and remove dead skin cells without disrupting your skin barrier.
Then hydrate, even if your skin is oily. Especially if it’s oily. A lightweight serum that hydrates without heaviness helps your skin behave more predictably.
Then sunscreen. Every day. If your SPF feels heavy or clogging, it’s the formula, not the step. You still need it, especially when you’re dealing with acne and post-acne marks.
Evening
Cleanse properly. This is where you remove the day (including some of the excess oils and breakout causing bacteria on your skin). Use something that clears buildup without being aggressive.
Follow with a moisturiser that supports your skin. If your skin feels irritated, lean into calming, barrier-supporting products.
For active breakouts, treat them directly. You don’t need to treat your whole face just the pustules and whiteheads.
A moment for pimple patches
If a spot is active, use a patch. Some patches are matte and almost invisible, so you can wear them day and night. Yay!
Pimple patches protect your skin, stop touching/picking and can reduce inflammation by morning.
There not magic, but they’re close enough.
Your routine at a glance
Morning
- La Roche Posay Effalcar H Iso Biome Soothing Cleansing Cream
- Boring Without You Hydrating Brightening Milk Serum
-
BEAUTI. FLTR Feather Light SPF50+
Evening
- TBH Spot Cleanser
- TBH Spot Treatment (only where needed)
- TBH Patch It Up Everyday Pimple Patches (when needed)
- Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturiser
If you’re starting a routine to address adult hormonal acne, avoid jumping straight into strong actives like Vitamin C or retinoids.
Start simple, let your skin settle, and introduce actives slowly to reduce the risk of irritation.
Before you change everything again
Hormonal acne doesn’t respond overnight. Two to four weeks is a realistic timeframe to start seeing change.
How will you know if your new routine is working? You’ll notice:
- Less redness around breakouts
- Fewer new deep pimples (the ones that sit under the skin)
- Skin around breakouts looks calmer and more hydrated.
If you haven’t noticed an improvement in your skin after 4-6 weeks, ask a pharmacist you trust for information about azelaic acid and/or Adapalene.
A note on skin purging
Skin purging is when your skin breaks out more temporarily after starting an active ingredient that speeds up cell turnover, like retinoic acid (retinol). It brings underlying congestion to the surface faster, so your skin might look worse before it improves.
Skin purging usually starts within the first week or two of introducing an active ingredient like retinoids or exfoliating acids. It can last up to four weeks, depending on your skin cycle, and should gradually improve as your skin adjusts.
Be patient with your skin (and kind to yourself)
There can be some trial and error when treating adult hormonal acne.
It doesn’t mean you’re doing it wrong. It just means you’ll need to do a little more research and testing to figure out which products work best on your skin.
Give it time, keep things consistent and resist the urge to change everything at once.
Skin doesn’t need perfect, it needs steady. If things are trending calmer, you’re on the right track.
